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Frequent Partial Water Changes
by Robert M. Fenner ~ Author of
'The
Conscientious Marine Aquarist'
Copyright © 2004 www.wetwebmedia.com
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Probably
the most important aspect of maintenance a keeper of an aquatic system
can
do to optimize water quality and health of their charges is to change
some of the water
is a regular basis. This Section deals with the reasons for, and some
rules of thumb as
to how often, how much and how to make these changes.
Rationale:
There are several major benefits of frequent partial water changes:
Dilution of nutrient,
removal of particulate matter, reduction in microbial populations and
their metabolites.
Results anticipated are faster, more vigorous growth, reduced algae
growth, color and
odor.
It has been written in many fisheries, limnological and hobbyist texts
that along with
temperature and photoperiod, metabolite ("wastes") build-up is one of
the three most
important factors influencing the health, growth and reproduction of
livestock.
More specifically; in the trade, ammonia and other nitrogenous wastes
are recognized
as the number one killer of aquatic life in captive conditions. Not to
say that all the "stuff"
produced by the system's desirable life is toxic. Some metabolites, like
pheromones,
are actually known to have calming effects. Therefore the concept of
partial, not total
water changes.
In doing these water changes we are interested in a dilution-solution;
that is, keeping
these so- called waste products at tolerable levels. There are several
ways this is otherwise accomplished. Most common are some forms of biological filtration
and chemical
filtration like carbon and ion- exchange materials. The last are useful
but often labor
and money intensive. Moreover, these chemical filtrants do remove
desirable chemicals
as well.
As stated in so many previous Sections, it is imperative vital that as
much extraneous
materials: foods, dirt from decor, material from the immediate outside
environment be
kept from getting in the system. What little does make its way in should
be removed
by netting/vacuuming, diluted or removed by making partial water
changes.
Some potential pollution will probably be added to your system in the
way of food and
chemical additives/fertilizer. Even without over or misfeeding and/or
fertilizing, freshwater evaporation adds to a decided negative chemical effect on an
aquatic system.
This "Salton Sea Syndrome" occurs as water evaporates leaving behind
its' chemical
constituents.
So enough of the reasoning for making water changes; onto the nuts and
bolts of how
to do them:
How often:
Depending on your pump/filter/circulation system, stocking and feeding
regimen et al.,
partial water changes about once a week to about once a month are about
right. More
frequent smaller amounts are better than infrequent mega-changes, with
one possible
exception. Some writers advocate an occasional massive change (50% or
more) as a
stop-gap measure to dilute metabolites, nitrates in particular. I'd
rather encourage you
to stick to regular, smaller volume changes; they're safer and
accomplish about the
same ends.
Make a schedule/notebook for your system and keep track of what you do
and how it
works for you. Patterns will emerge and give you a guideline for how
frequent you
should change water.
How much:
Five to ten percent for larger systems and twice that for smaller is
generally sufficient.
The chemical/physical/biological shock from changing too much too soon
is to be
avoided.
Though some marine authors state that water treatment chemicals are
unwarranted
with such frequent small percentage change, I'd encourage you "to be
safe, rather than
sorry", and treat to remove chlorine/choramine unless you're preparing
water a week
or more in advance of use.
How to:
However it is achieved, the part of the water and what's dissolved in it
are mainly to be
found at and in the bottom.
Solids are systematically removed from part, but never all of the bottom
of the tank and
possibly sump by using a "gravel vacuum". We don't want to vent all the
beneficial microbes along with the solids, so a plan is made to move the decor and
vacuum a half,
third, what have you, of the base in a given water change period.
New water is replaced with pre-mixed synthetic of similar temperature
and specific
gravity.
Summary:
Regardless of how well a system is designed and constructed, there will
always be
maintenance. Frequent partial water changes are one of the best ways of
ensuring
continuing success.
There are manufacturers who claim their products do away with the need
for frequent
partial water changes. Their products may well extend the amount of time
between
changing or ostensibly eliminate it, but at what economic cost?
With the proper tools and materials, water changes are a breeze. Water
changing is
the cheapest, easiest, most sure method of diluting wastes and
replenishing buffering
capacity, "trace materials", while concurrently cleaning the system of
undesirable
solids and liquids.
Bibliography/Further Reading:
Bauman, Edward. 1994. Water wisdom; as if changing a little water will
kill you.
AFM 12/94.
Branscome, Lee. 1985. How to stop carrying those buckets of water. FAMA
11/85.
Dow, Steve. 1986. Heavy water. TFH 5/86.
Fenner, Bob. 1999. Frequent partial water changes. FAMA 5/99.
Hanford, Wilber L. 1969. A change of water. TFH 5/69.
Mowka, Edmund J. 1979. Water changes in the marine aquarium; partial
water
changes in the marine system are often neglected for a variety of
reasons. Here's
why water changes are essential, as well as a method of calculating the
necessary
amount. FAMA 12/79.
Ostrow, Marshall E. 1981. Water changes. TFH 5/81.i
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Robert Fenner is the Author of the best selling book
'The Conscientious Marine Aquarist' and 'A
Fishwatchers Guide to the Saltwater Aquarium Fishes of the World'.
He is a marine scientist and an advid marine aqaurist. Robert Fenner is
a former instructor for the University of California system and has
regularly contributed to reputable aquarium publications. Further
information regarding Robert Fenner can be found at his website:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com
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